Traveling With Your Pet

ROAD TRIP

Trial Run:

A few days before heading off, take them for a short drive to see how they react. Do they get restless and anxious? Do they get carsick? These are some things you should know beforehand.

Seat Belt:

Always, always make sure they are in their carrier, and make sure the crate is secured and buckled up. Thousands of crashes each year have been chalked up to unrestrained pets, especially when they are in the passenger seat. It’s not only distracting, it’s dangerous.

Stay Inside:

While it seems harmless, letting your dog stick his head out the window is inadvisable. According to a study by the ASPCA, such an act can damage the lungs and cause lung infections.

Pit Stops and Water:

The ASPCA recommends that you let your dog out and do his business every two to three hours, and let them get some exercise as well. Also, be sure to have a gallon or two of cold water to keep them hydrated.

Stay Together:

Do not leave them in the car. Even with the window cracked open, the temperature can reach up to 110 degrees in 10 minutes on a hot day. If you are going somewhere pets are not allowed, either leave them at home or keep them in a pet-friendly hotel.

PLANE

Fit to Fly?:

Young pets, old pets, or sick pets do not do well in planes. This also applies to many breeds. Also, many airlines will not allow pets to fly in the cargo hold. Check with your veterinarian before you fly with your pet.

Papers:

If you are going out of the country, find out what vaccinations and paperwork your pet will need. Consult your veterinarian to find out more.

The Carrier:

Make sure that your pet has enough room to stand and turn around without hitting their head. If you have never had a carrier before, leave it out for several days before the trip so that they get used to it.

ID Tags:

Keep your information on your pets’ collar and on their carrier at all times. 

Exercise:

Before you fly, spend some time with your pet while exercising. Play. Go for a walk. The more tired your pet is, the more likely they may sleep during the trip.

http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/07/23/traveling-with-pets_n_3640948.html

http://www.aa.com/i18n/travelInformation/specialAssistance/pets.jsp

http://www.thetruckersreport.com/traveling-by-car-or-truck-with-pets/

Why Adopt a Shelter Pet?

-You Save a Life:

Millions of adoptable pets are euthanized each year for various reasons, but that number could be greatly reduced if people would adopt them instead of buying them. By adopting from a private humane society or animal shelter, rescue group, or the local animal-control agency, you'll help save the lives of two animals—the pet you adopt and a homeless animal somewhere who can be rescued because of space you helped free up.

-You Get a Healthy Pet:
It is a common misconception that animals end up in shelters or with rescue groups because they've been abused or done something “wrong". In fact, most animals are given to shelters or rescue groups because of "people reasons," not because of anything they've done. Things like a divorce, moving, and financial constraints are among the most common reasons pets lose their homes. Most shelter residents are healthy, affectionate animals. Many have already lived with a human family and have the basic training, socialization, and cooperative skills they need to become part of your household. Most shelters give their animals vaccinations, spay and neuter, and give other medical care when necessary.

Another myth is that shelter dogs are all mutts. In fact, 25 percent of shelter dogs are purebreds.

-You Save Money:

It is much less expensive to adopt than it is to buy them from a pet store. As mentioned, most of the pets in shelters have already been spayed, neutered, and vaccinated at no cost to you. Some even chip the pets for you without you having to pay a penny. Shelter pets are a bargain! For a reasonable cost, you can adopt an animal that would cost several hundred dollars elsewhere. Buying a pet can easily cost over one thousand dollars, while adoption fees can be kept as low as two hundred dollars.

-You Won’t Be Supporting Puppy Mills and Pet Stores:

This is the biggest concern. When you buy a pet from a pet store you are actually giving money to puppy mills, the breeding facilities whose one focus is making money, without a care for how the animals are treated. These pets are kept in poor conditions and are not given proper medical care. As soon as a pet is no longer marketable, they are discarded: killed, abandoned, or sold at auction.

-After Buying a Pet Store Animal, You’re On Your Own:

Most pet stores don’t give out support if you have questions or concerns, or if you are having trouble with your new pet. On the other hand, when you adopt from a rescue group, you will always have support and advice when you need it. The rescue group will also help you through the familiarization period, because they are invested in providing a good home for that animal.

http://www.humanesociety.org/issues/adopt/tips/top_reasons_adopt.html

http://www.apsofdurham.org/why-adopt-a-shelter-pet/

http://hhhstopeka.org/top_ten_reasons_to_adopt_from_hhhs0.aspx

http://bestfriends.org/Resources/Pet-Care/General-Pet-Care/Getting-Started/Why-Adopt-Rather-Than-Buy-/

Preparing for a New Pet

Bringing home a new pet is an exciting event. But it can also be very stressful. Here are some ways of preparing for the newest member of your family, before and after you bring them home.

Dog/Cat Proofing: Adjust Spacing

Preparing for a new pet involves a lot of planning ahead. One area that many people don’t think of is temporarily rearranging a room for your cat or dog to acclimate to their big new home. It is much easier on a new pet to gradually introduce them to more and more space. 

When you set up the pet-proof room, make sure you include a bed, bowls for food and water, and toys. For house-trained pets include a litterbox or something else to collect excrement. If he or she had a blanket or special toy from their shelter days, include it. It can help your pet feel more at home. Both dogs and cats need some time to properly adjust to their new homes. They may spent days in small, dark places like under the bed or the sofa. 

Food and Other Supplies

Make sure you know what they were fed at the shelter, and for pets using a litterbox, find out what kind of litter they used. If you want to change their food or litter, do it gradually. New pets especially have difficulty coping with sudden changes. 

Collar and ID Tag

Every pet should have a collar and a name tag, even indoor pets. It should contain your pet’s name and your phone number, and it should be on hand when you pick up your pet. Without a tag, the likelihood of being returned home after running away is much lower. Some pets have a small chip, embedded under their skin, that can be scanned and traced back to their owner.

Veterinarian

Before taking your pet home, contact a local animal hospital or veterinarian and schedule a few appointments within a few days of the adoption. Making a connection with a vet early on is the start of a good relationship, both for you and for your new pet.

Housebreaking

This is going to take a lot of patience and love. You should begin almost immediately after bringing him home. Puppies need to urinate approximately six times a day, and keeping up with him will take energy. There are many resources with tips or step-by-step instructions that could help you through the process.

Bonding

Finding time for your pets is time well spent. It gets them used to you and makes them feel more comfortable. Sometimes spending just ten minutes a day playing with your new pet is enough. Not to mention that snuggling with your dog or cat can actually lower stress and strengthen your immune system.

Introduction to Other Pets

It may take a lot of time for them to be friends, but it is essential for them to get along. It’s also important too make the process gradual. Give both pets space and time to adjust to each other. Do some looking into reputable sites such as the ASPCA site and WebMD. There are a lot of tips on those sites that could help you.

Patience is key. It may take a while for your pet to acclimate to their new environment, but eventually, everything will return to normal. And congratulations on your adoption!

https://www.petfinder.com/dogs/bringing-a-dog-home/tips-for-first-30-days-dog/

http://dogs.about.com/od/becomingadogowner/qt/What-To-Expect-After-Adopting-A-New-Dog.htm

https://www.petfinder.com/cats/bringing-a-cat-home/tips-for-first-30-days-cat/

http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/housebreaking.htm

http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/virtual-pet-behaviorist/dog-behavior/introducing-your-dog-new-dog

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What Not To Eat: For Dogs

Alcohol: Any alcohol, even a small amount, is dangerous. When dogs become intoxicated, coma and death may follow. So keep their noses out of wine and other spirits. Hops, also, are a threat to any dog who ingests them. Both fresh and cooked hops have been shown to poison dogs, who show extremely high fevers and sometimes organ failure.

Avocado: The leaves, fruit, and seeds may contain persin, which is toxic to dogs. The Guatemalan variety, which is usually the kind found in stores, are the most problematic, but other types have similar effects.

Bones: Even though it may seem benign, giving a dog a real bone can cause many problems. Chewing on bone can cause cracked or broken teeth, slivers of broken bone can cause damage to the mouth, and pieces of bone can, if swallowed, cause lacerations in the digestive system.

Chocolate/Caffeine: This is a big one. Either one of these, even in small amounts can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and dehydration. Also, damage to the heart and nervous system could occur. Do not feed your dog chocolate of any kind or anything with caffeine in it such as soda, tea, or coffee.

Citrus: Insecticides, dips, shampoos, bug spray, and other household items with citrus fragrances are toxic. They can cause liver damage or failure, vomiting, excessive drooling, and even death. If you suspect your dog has ingested anything of citrus-scented or flavored, take him to the vet immediately.

Fish: Fish of any kind, be it raw, cooked, or canned, can result in a B4 vitamin deficiency. Symptoms include loss of appetite, seizures, and in severe cases, death. So, no fish for fido.

Fruit Pits: Dogs of any size should not be allowed to eat the pits of fruits such as peaches or cherries.  Not only are they a choking hazard, but they could also become an obstruction in the digestive tract.

Onions:

These and other close members of the onion family, such as shallots, garlic, and scallions, contain compounds that damage dogs’ red blood cells if they eat any amount. The stronger it is, the more toxic it could be.

Raw Meat/Eggs: There is a high risk of salmonella in uncooked meat or raw eggs. Vomiting and diarrhea may also occur. Keep dogs away from any uncooked eggs or meat. 

Xylitol: This artificial sweetener, found in sugar-free candies like gum and mints, Xylitol causes hypoglycemia (low blood sugar), vomiting, weakness, and in some cases, liver failure. Keep your dog away from the tempting taste of candy, even in small quantities.

http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=2+1659&aid=1030

http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/virtual-pet-behaviorist/dog-behavior/foods-are-hazardous-dogs

http://pets.webmd.com/dogs/ss/slideshow-foods-your-dog-should-never-eat